Kanchipuram

They're spread out all across the city and you'll need at least a whole day to see them. The best way to do this is to hire a bicycle for the day or to take on a rickshaw driver for the whole day (this should cost around Rs 10). There are no taxis or auto-rickshaws. You should have plenty of small change handy when visiting the temples to mollify various demands for baksheesh by 'temple watchmen', 'shoe watchers', 'guides' and assorted priests. As it's a famous temple city plenty of pilgrims and tourists come here and the army of hangers-on is legion. Almost to a man, the people who attach themselves to you as 'guides' are a complete waste of time and will bore you shitless. They'll hustle you round at the speed of light, fill your ears with nonsense and then demand you pay them up to Rs 10 for the unsolicited pain of their tedious company.

Kailasanatha Temple: Dedicated to Shiva, this is one of the earliest temples and was built by the Pallava king, Rayasimha in the late 7th century though its front was added by the later king, Mahendra Varman III. It's the only one of the temples at Kanchi which hasn't been cluttered with more recent additions by the Cholas and Vijayanagar kings and so reflects the freshness and simplicity of early Dravidian architecture of which other examples can be seen at Mahabal-lipuram. A few fragments of the 8th century murals which used to grace the alcoves are still visible and a reminder of how magnificent the temple must have looked when it was first built. If you have any interest in archaeology, the Archaeological Survey of India has an office opposite the temple and the staff are most willing to tell you more about the history of Kanchipuram.

Vaikuntaperumal Temple: Dedicated to Vishnu, this temple was built between 674-800 AD shortly after the • Kailasanatha Temple by Paramesh-wara and Nandi Varman II. The cloisters inside the outer wall consisting of lion pillars represent the first phase in the evolution of the grand 1000-pillared halls of later temples.

Ekambareshwara Temple: Dedicated to Shiva, this is one of the largest temples in Kanchipuram and covers 9 hectares. Its huge gopuram, 59 metres high (192 ft), and massive outer stone wall were constructed by Krishna Devaraja of the Vijayanagar Empire in 1509 though construction was originally started by the Pallavas and later added to by the Cholas. Inside are five separate enclosures and a 1000-pillared hall.

Kamakshiamman Temple: Dedicated to the goddess Parvati, this imposing temple is the site of the annual car festival which falls on the 9th lunar day in February /March. When not in use the ornately-carved wooden car is kept partially covered in corrugated iron half way up Gandhi Road.

Varadarajaperumal Temple: Like the Ekambareshwara Temple, this is another enormous monument with massive outer walls and a 1000-pillared hall. One of its most notable sculptural features is a huge chain carved out of a single piece of stone. The temple is dedicated to Vishnu and was built by the Vijayanagar kings. If you want to stay longer it's possible to rent houses or rooms in houses on a monthly or weekly basis.