Annals And Antiquity of This French Territory
The pages of history might seem to have shrunken over the time, but they caresses such great volumes of bygone memorabilia, that it is hard to overlook the glory of this French sector. Once the mainstay of French ambitions in the subcontinent for teo-and-a-half centuries, Pondicherry offers an eclectic mix of French and Indian culture. Recent excavations at Arikamedu have revealed relics of Roman settlements, dating back to 2nd century BC which attests the importance of this place as a trading vantage point. The French followed in the 17th century, by which time it had mutated into a flourishing fishing village on the eastern shores of India. They came late but left an eternal signature on the heart of this pristine city, and you can still their mark - as the stamp on the French passport many of its Tamil-born denizens still hold out, the red caps of the local police force, the graffiti and signages, the conectionary shops laden with exotic breads and the handsome bougainvillea-trimmed villas bleached in Mediterranean creams, yellows, pinks and greys.
An Above The World on The Beach
The Chunambar Beach at Pondicherry, 7 km out of town is a wonderful place to wander around leisurely. The city ends at the cafe and bar lined beach with the roaring waves crashing against the rocks. Try to relish your sightseeing, start you beach combing from the 1 ½ km long promenade that provides a magnificent view of the beach from the feet of the statue of Mahatma Gandhi, the father of the nation. Behold the eight exquisitely carved monolithic pillars embellishing the place along with a War Memorial raised by the French in honour of those who died in World War I. Stretch out on the golden sands away from the warm hum of the bustling city, then retire for the night until you are ready to wake to the backwater boating and beach huts. It is often possible to spot dolphins gamboling in the sea close to the beach. A natural of entertainment comes from hawkers, acrobats and snake charmers who make an evening besides the shores a memorable experience.
The Aurobindo Trail
The heritage trail should ideally commence from the labyrinthine lanes of the Old Town, standing in mute testimony to the bygone realm of France. Leave your hired bicycles behind for your ramble to Auroville, portraying an International Township of Harmony. Roosting on a concept that caresses the concept of a motherly ambience, it is an entirely independent multi-racial community, which works and lives in self-fashioned, wildly traditional homes. You will find belle France peeping out from behind her Indian ‘ghungat’ (veil) around every street corner, from behind every louvred windowpane, but never dropping her mask. Relax in self consciousness at Matri Mandir, an architectural marvel built as a centre for meditation.
Spend an evening amidst the serene and soul-touching ambience of Aurobindo Ashram, within an aura of peace and harmony. It is a quite place to meditate and peep into the realms of superconsciousness. Nestling in the eastern part of Pondicherry, the Ashram was founded in 1926 with the object of creating an evolution of a higher spiritual domain. Interestingly, the Ashram is not a quiet place of retreat but a vibrant centre of life in a modern urban setting. The dynamic character of the community reflects the various stages of Sri Aurobindo's Yoga.
A Heritage of French Signature
Visit the heritage monuments that sit around the green lung of Bharathi Park. The pilastered, corniced, arched and louvred fromtages are simply ornamental, but afford a high quality woodwork, especially in the hanging Juliet balconies and iron fretwork. Walk inside the park to see the Greco-Roman folly of Ayee Mandapam, built by the French in honour of a courtesan. Don’t miss the Maison Anandha Rangapillai (1738), with its curious seguing of Indo-French hallmarks - it is second home to the ‘dubash’ (diarist) of the celebrated French Governor Dupleix, whose statue presides over the promenade to the south.
In the Tamil quarter, swelling around the temples in the northern part of the town, marvellous mansions lie cheek by jowl along east west lanes. Walk out in the sun, in the shade of the ‘thalvaram’ (street verandah) jutting out of most every facade. Take a breather on one of the hospitable masonry benches at their ‘thinnai’ (ground-floor verandas) below. Wonder at the gigantic, fancifully carved dorrways. If you are lucky enough, you could be invited in by a hoary resident. Accept the invitation and feel the pleasure of stepping inside, garnished with a series of colonnaded courtyards 9mutram) to gain the intimacy of the family’s living spaces.
Moments of Merriment
Pondicherry is a place where you can enjoy the euphoria of two directions; the East and the West. Visit during January, and be a part of the International Yoga Festival held in Pondicherry. Amidst an international gathering, yogic art is displayed through practice sessions, seminars and shows. Drive north of the quaint fishing village of Kurichikuppam, to behold the century old magnificent Maasi Magam festival in March. Deities from about 38 temples are brought in a grand procession to Pondicherry and taken around the town. The ends with the ablutions of ‘chakra’ (the discus of Lord Vishnu) and ‘trishul’ (the trident of Lord Shiva) with the euphony of Nadaswaram (horns) in the backdrop. |
