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Sabarimala Tourism

It is for sure that Kerala has something more than its backwaters and ayurveda, more than its nurses and the bowl of rice, and even more than its colourful festivals and Kathakali dances that add a magnificent aroma to its air. And that is the country's own God, Ayyappa. What is more, all his devotees are called Ayyappas, probably endorsing their closeness with the supreme self. With black dhotis wrapped around their waists and with beards grown during 'vritham' (41 days of vegetarianism, celibacy, prayer and wearing of the Sabarimala rudraksh), they all look alike. Moreover, the echo of "Swamiye Saranam Ayyappa" along with hundreds of burning flames, surely portray a magnificent vista to behold.

Lord Ayyappa belongs exclusively to Kerala. The eye-catching 'god' in the Kerala Tourism Department's promotional slogan - God's own country - however doesnot manifest Ayyappa. Perched high up on the Sahyadri mountain ranges, Sabarimala Sri Dharmasastha Temple, is simultaneously the most famous and richest temple of Kerala.

Rameswaram temple

Saranam Ayyappa - Surrender To Thy Feet
Mandalapooja (Nov.15th) and Makaravilakku (Jan.14th) are the two main events of the pilgrim season that attract thousands of devotees from all over the country. Legends prevail about Ayyappa's identities, 16 in all including the one in which he is believed to be incarnated as Buddha. The most common belief praises his birth as the union of Shiva and Vishnu, when the former was struck by the beauty of Vishnu and asks him to take the female form. Unlike certain Hindu temples, Sabarimala temple has no restrictions of caste or creed, and the pride of the place at the shrine is given to a Muslim deity to be heeded in God's secular vision. True individual action is called for as opposed to religious rites. The austerities include 41 days of vegetarianism, abstinence from sex and dressing in the sacred colours of blue (the celestial colour), ochre (of the renunciate) and black (of one who is dead to the world).

Interestingly, on the day of 'Thiruvabharanam' (journey to the sacred site), every year two kites appear in the sky above the Pandalam Palace (the starting point) and are belived to be auspicious for the journey. Starting the journey on January 14th, the 'Thiruvabharanam' procession takes two days to reach the Sabarimala temple. You can plan your visit so as to coincide with this day that marks the appearance of a celestial light, called 'Makarajyothi'. Rationalists correlate the phenomenon to a sleight of hand by the Kerala Forest Department, but devotees believe the lights are 'aartis' performed by 'devas' and 'rishis' residing in heaven.

The Road To God

It takes around 2 ½ hours through dense forests to reach Sabarimala. On top of that, committed pilgrims are expected to walk barefoot, as a test of their endurance. Before proceeding to the temple, take a bath in the Pampa river, also known as the Ganges of the South. As you walk towards the temple premises, you will be greeted with the pleasant aroma of camphor and incense. Police are at hand to ensure that stampedes are avoided and that you ascend the 18 steps - symbolising the 18 elements and so transcending them to the point where you handover a ghee-filled coconut and come face to face with Ayyappa. The significance of the coconut is open to interpretations, the most acceptable being that the shell is the devotee's body, the soft third eye of the coconut is his spiritual eye and the ghee his soul - all of which is surrendered at the Lord's feet. Bow in front of the Lord and take the prasadam (don't forget to offer some 'dakshina' at the entrance). Contour the temple 3 times before you move out with the shout of the temple employees - "move on, move on" - at the backdrop. Before stepping outside, turn back and shout "Swamiye saranam, saranam Ayyappa" (Oh Lord Ayyappa, I surrender to thee) alon with the euphony of the loudspeakers.

 
Sabarimala(210 km SE of Kochi and 235 km NE of Trivandrum)
 


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